Tree-Shaped Ornament

This delicate gold tree surmounted by a bird has been identified as a head ornament or, at least, part of a much elaborated set presumably made for a wealthy woman. A favourite status-symbol among the nomadic populations of Central Asia, gold played a central role in the politics of adornment and strategies of self-representation of both men and women. Stunning gold headpieces have been excavated in royal tombs on the archaeological ground of Tillya Tepe (northern Afghanistan) and date back to the beginning of the Common Era, attesting the ancient usage of swaying head ornaments across Eurasia. Much simpler in shape, JE.81.2002 consists of a tubular shaft with branches terminating in dangling gold leaves and a finial with two flat elongated leaves flanking a small repoussé bird. The finial is further embellished with red gemstones, possibly carnelian, one held in the bird’s beak. The motif of a bird topping a tree reconnects to the ancient iconography of the “tree of life”, a widespread theme in Eurasia folklore and symbolism popular, for instance, among nomadic populations of Turkic descent. The reddish gemstones might represent pomegranate fruits, a symbol of wealth and fertility, a very apt reference for a young lady.

The custom of using swaying hairpins originates from the northern Asian steppes; earlier examples of golden aigrettes significantly close to JE.81.2002 have been found in Xiongnu and Xianbei tombs from Northeast China. Known as bu yao (lit. “sway with steps”) in Chinese, these hairpins later became part of Chinese noblewoman’s regalia and were depicted in paintings dating to the Tang period.