Emerald Belt Buckle

This belt buckle consists of a magnificent 11th century AH/17th century CE carved Mughal emerald mounted into a later, 14th century AH/20th century CE setting, surrounded by twenty-nine brilliant cut diamonds secured with prongs and set within gold alloy brackets. The gold belt handle has two single row sets of seven diamonds on each side. Of oval shape, the vivid green emerald has been skilfully carved by Mughal lapidaries, who have decorated both the front and reverse sides with a series of floral sprays and geometric patterns. Two sides of the emerald also present partially drilled holes, suggesting that the stone was previously used in another setting, probably in a necklace or bazuband. Believed to possess various healing powers, emeralds were often worn to repel illnesses and evil spirits. While historically emeralds were found in Egypt, and to a lesser extent, northern Pakistan, deep green emeralds such as this were mined in Columbia and were adopted into the Mughal courts following the expansion of the trading networks with Europeans in the 10th century AH/16th century CE.